I’m not sure if my sense of smell has been heightened now that I’m in my early 60s but since I’ve been walking around Manhattan for the past three days, aside from the carnival-like atmosphere which permeates every square inch of real estate in this the smallest (geographically) of the five boroughs which make up New York City, a myriad of aromas, odours and fragrances is omnipresent on every street and around every corner. Everything from cheap perfume to sewer gas to deep fryer exhaust has met my nostrils head-on with every step I’ve taken – and I’ve averaged about 18,000 steps each day. The principle of creating scent-free spaces is yet to reach this densely crowded island or the throngs of tourists, hucksters and presumably those who try their best to live their lives here. Every scantily-clad woman seems to be wearing enough sweet fragrance to reach the Jersey shore and beyond. Sometimes it’s overwhelming and sometimes it’s downright seductive but it’s impossible to ignore and it adds another thick layer to the sensory overload which makes this place like no other I have ever experienced.
When the NFL schedule was released in May, I circled this weekend as the one which would include my first trip to the Big Apple. A tour of the main branch of the New York Public Library, a Broadway show, a two-and-a-half-hour boat cruise around the entirety of Manhattan, a patio dinner in the East Village and many miles of walking were the opening acts for a trip to the Meadowlands of New Jersey yesterday to see the Bills v. Jets at Metlife Stadium. Getting there by public transit from mid-town Manhattan is easy and fast: a round trip ticket from Penn Station on New Jersey transit to the stadium costs about six bucks and even with a change of trains in Seacaucus takes just over 30 minutes. The stadium itself eats 82,000 and has fantastic sight-lines even from the upper level. After careful consideration, I decided to wear my Bills colours and was a bit surprised to see that about 40% of those in attendance did too. Our section was at least three quarters Bills fans but featured an enthusiastic and very loud Jets fan whose mood began with abounding optimism which quickly turned to bitter disappointment, anger which included colourful cursing of his team and its coaching staff then finally, brooding silence. It’s tough to be part of “Gang-Green” these days and has been for many years now.
The Bills were in full control of the game from the opening drive. Even without their week-one star DT Ed Oliver, the Bills defence smothered the Jets who could muster only a paltry 154 total yards of offence on the day. Jets quarterback Justin Fields was knocked out of the game and into the league’s concussion protocol by Joey Bosa’s fourth quarter sack but managed only one impactful play before that – 27-yard scamper in the second quarter. As we exited the stadium with about ten minutes remaining in the game, we heard the Jets radio play-by-play broadcaster ask his colour-man if this was the kind of game where you just burn the tape and move on or if there was something to be learned for the team and its coaching staff. He replied that there was definitely something to be learned but seemed usure about exactly what that might be.
Taking into account that the Jets are in rough shape and have been in the wilderness since Rex Ryan left, the level of support and enthusiasm (except for the aforementioned guy in our section) seemed surprisingly weak compared to what Buffalo fans offer their team. Even throughout the 17-year playoff drought which ended in 2017, Bills fans showed up on time and were always loud even when there wasn’t much to cheer for. Early on in the game, before it was out of reach, on defensive third downs, Jets fans cheered tepidly at best (despite encouragement from the four massive video screens) and generally seemed disconnected from the beginning. Joe Klecko’s pre-game leading of the signature cheer of “J-E-T-S Jets Jets Jets” created little excitement and generated only passive participation. Bills scoring drives produced almost as much noise. Aaron Glenn may be the right coach for the Jets but this will be another long season for them and bumbling owner Woody Johnson may run out of patience with him too early – as he always does.
Today, we will see the 9/11 Memorial and take a look around Wall Street and the New York Stock Exchange in Lower Manhattan before heading to LaGuardia. Older Jets fans will remember the days of defensive stalwarts Joe Klecko and Mark Gastineau who became known as the New York Sack Exchange. That must seem like several lifetimes ago for them.
Up next for the Bills is a short week and a Thursday night home game against the Miami Dolphins whose fortunes entering week three seem about as bleak as those of the Jets. Tyrek Hill is frustrated and Tua is regressing week by week and season by season. Head coach Mike McDaniel, known equally for his supposed offensive genius and his irreverent and unorthodox style of conducting press conferences, may not last the season in Miami either. The New England Patriots appear now to be the second-best team in the AFC East and now with four winnable division games, could challenge for a wild-card playoff spot – something which seemed unthinkable a year ago.
I’m hoping to make this New York weekend an annual one and I’m also hoping that the schedule makers can make it a little later in the fall when the weather is cooler. There are of course more Broadway shows to take in, more museums to see, many more Manhattan miles to walk and, hopefully, more easy Bills wins against the Jets in New Jersey.
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